Mauritius, You Have My Heart!

After a blissful week at the luxurious SunLife Long Beach resort, our adventure took on a new rhythm. From indulgence to exploration, we swapped the comforts of a five-star stay for a road trip around this beautiful island. Hiring a car and staying in charming self-catering spots gave us the freedom to immerse ourselves in Mauritius, an island rich in jungle landscapes, white-sand beaches, bustling markets, fascinating wildlife and the ever-inviting warm ocean. Here is how our journey unfolded.

A Tranquil Start in the North

Our first stop was the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden at Pamplemousses, one of the oldest botanical gardens in the Southern Hemisphere. These peaceful grounds, with towering trees and ornamental lakes, were a haven of serenity. From there we visited L’Aventure du Sucre, a fascinating museum in a former sugar factory at Beau Plan. Its displays give profound insights into the island’s history, including slavery and indentured labour, the foundations of the Mauritian economy. You finish with a tasting of unrefined sugars and rums.

That evening we checked in at Pereybere, a quiet village with a pristine public beach. Unlike the manicured private beaches of resorts, Pereybere’s natural beauty was enhanced by trees stretching to the shoreline, giving shade to locals and visitors alike. At sunset, families gathered to cool off, creating a vibrant yet relaxed atmosphere. It was a magical introduction to local life.

Kayaking Adventures and Local Flavours

The next day began with a kayaking trip from Bain de Rosnay to explore the mangroves of Ile d’Ambre, part of Islets National Park. For three blissful hours it felt as though we had this pristine paradise to ourselves.

Lunch was a highlight: a beach barbecue at Cap Malheureux, right next to the iconic red-roofed church. Sharing a meal with locals, we had the best barbecue we have ever had, with generous portions, bursting with flavour and incredibly affordable.

Encountering Wildlife: A Mixed Bag

After stopping at Grand Baie to admire the grand resorts, we headed to Trou aux Biches, where we joined a turtle encounter trip. Swimming with sea turtles was something we had wanted to do, but sadly it did not live up to our expectations. Although it was advertised as a responsible wildlife trip, the boats crowded and chased the turtles and even fed them to lure them closer. It was distressing for both the turtles and the snorkellers. Lesson learned: always research thoroughly before booking wildlife experiences.

Swimming with, feeding and harassing sea turtles has not been allowed in Mauritian waters since a ministry notice in January 2022, yet some operators still sell these trips. My Animal Welfare Policy explains how I judge wildlife experiences, and my article on rethinking wildlife tourism goes further.

That evening we found solace at Flic en Flac Beach, a stunning cove with crystal-clear waters. Later we stayed in La Gaulette, a small village where we watched fishermen unload their catch at sunset. It was an entirely different feel from the polished resorts and a refreshing glimpse into everyday life.

Dramatic Landscapes

The following day we explored the dramatic scenery of Black River Gorges National Park. Steep, jungle-clad mountains made a mesmerising backdrop for our hike to Tamarind Falls. Though only 2km, the near-vertical trail tested our stamina and fitness. The reward was a refreshing swim in the pool beneath the falls, and we had it all to ourselves. It was bliss.

We also spent time on the beach below Le Morne, the mountain that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Escaped slaves sheltered on its slopes in the 18th and early 19th centuries, and it is now a symbol of the fight for freedom, and its history and unspoilt beauty left a lasting impression. The coral reefs surrounding the island create calm lagoons perfect for swimming and snorkelling, and we marvelled at the vibrant coral and reef fish within metres of the shore. However, rising sea levels and climate change pose significant challenges here. It was heartening to see Mauritius taking active steps to restore and protect its reefs.

Wildlife and the Wild South

La Vanille Nature Park has giant tortoises and crocodiles, both part of captive breeding programmes aimed at conservation, and the crocodile feeding is done by the keepers. I was not impressed that visitors are encouraged to feed the tortoises themselves and touch them, and I would not do it again or recommend it. Driving along the wild south coast felt like entering an untouched wilderness, a stark contrast to the bustling north, and this rugged, untamed region showed Mauritius’s raw beauty.

Relaxation at Blue Bay Marine Park

For our final days, including Christmas, we stayed in a stunning villa overlooking Blue Bay Marine Park, a nature reserve in the southeast and a Ramsar-listed wetland of international importance. Days were spent snorkelling in crystal-clear water, discovering vibrant coral gardens and enjoying leisurely barbecues as the sun set over the sea. It was the perfect way to end our adventure.

Reflections on Mauritius

The legacy of French and British colonialism shows in the island’s place names, language and infrastructure. English and French are widely spoken, Creole is the everyday language, and driving is on the left on roads that were well maintained. Everywhere we went we were met with warmth and kindness.

Mauritius is a small island, yet its diverse landscapes, rich wildlife and cultural heritage offer so much to explore. From birdsong at dawn to the kaleidoscope of life beneath the waves, it has a lot to offer. If you are deciding between islands, my article on Mauritius or the Maldives compares them. If you would like a week at a resort followed by a week on the road, I can plan the route and the places to stay, and tell you which wildlife trips to avoid.

Why Book With Me

This is a personal service from start to finish. I plan the route and book every part of it, and if anything changes while you are travelling, you call me and I deal with it.

Call or WhatsApp 0117 452 1159 or email bridget@worldclassadventures.co.uk