Northern Lights Explorer: My Arctic Adventure with Aurora Expeditions

Last month, I embarked on an unforgettable journey with Aurora Expeditions, travelling aboard the Greg Mortimer on the Northern Lights Explorer voyage. It was the kind of trip that goes beyond sightseeing – a real connection to nature, remote landscapes, and like-minded fellow travellers who share that same passion for the wild. This was an adventure filled with awe, serenity, and the magic of the Arctic. I’d love to share some highlights with you, so if you’re thinking of a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, keep reading!

Day 1: Kirkenes, Norway – A Warm Welcome to the Arctic

We began in the small town of Kirkenes, tucked away near Norway's border with Russia. I was surprised by how warm it was in this part of the Arctic - 22 degrees, and I’d only packed snow boots! After exploring some historical sites and getting my first look at the ship, I was absolutely buzzing with excitement. The Greg Mortimer exceeded all my expectations—spacious, modern, and beautifully designed. It’s a fantastic expedition ship, purpose-built for adventures like this, with state-of-the-art facilities that make you feel incredibly well looked after.

That evening, as we set sail, the sky treated us to our very first northern lights display. There I was, standing on deck in absolute awe as vibrant streaks of green and pink lit up the night sky. It felt surreal, like a gift from the Arctic, and set the tone for what was to come.

Day 2: Honningsvåg – Reindeer, Sami Culture, and Steep Hikes

Day two took us to Honningsvåg, where we were greeted by herds of reindeer, dwarfed by the towering, treeless landscape. There wasn’t a tree in sight, apart from tiny little shrubs clinging to the earth! We learned that the Sami people use drones to herd their reindeer, a modern twist to an ancient practice.

A highlight was the hike to the Kirkeporten Stone Arch. The wind was wild, the climb was steep, but wow, the views were worth it! Back on the ship, after another delicious meal on board (seriously, the food was incredible), we chatted with fellow passengers who quickly started to feel like old friends. There’s something about travelling with people who have the same spirit of adventure—it creates an instant bond. We shared stories, compared photos, and laughed about the day’s windswept moments. The expedition crew also added to the camaraderie, sharing their insights and making us feel part of something much bigger.

Day 3: Tromsø – Northern Lights, Planetariums, and Hot Tubs

Tromsø, the "Gateway to the Arctic," brought with it a different kind of magic. At the Tromsø Science Centre, we watched a stunning northern lights film in the planetarium, followed by an insightful talk about the history and science behind the aurora borealis. The combination of myth and science was truly captivating.

That evening, I had one of those ‘pinch-me’ moments. Sitting in the ship’s hot tub on deck, looking out over the city lights of Tromsø with the northern lights flickering above us... it was one of those experiences that I’ll treasure forever.

Days 4-5: The Lofoten Islands – Fjords, Fish, and Viking Feasts

The next few days were spent exploring the jaw-dropping Lofoten Islands. The rugged mountains, peaceful fjords, and quaint fishing villages were the perfect backdrop for some fantastic hikes. One day, I trekked up to a mountain top and was rewarded with 360-degree views of the jagged peaks and crystal-clear lakes below. The scenery was so striking, it felt almost otherworldly.

Another highlight for me was the floating sauna in Svolvaer, where I enjoyed refreshing harbour swims between steamy sauna sessions with magical sunset views. It was the perfect blend of relaxation and exhilaration, and a wonderful way to end a day of Arctic exploration

We also spent time on Haukland Beach, with its white sands and turquoise waters—a strange but beautiful sight in the Arctic! A visit to the Viking Museum at Borg transported us back in time, where we enjoyed a Viking-style feast by the fire. It was such a unique way to dive into the history of the region, and the homemade Viking soup was a real treat!

Days 6-7: At Sea – Whale Watching and the Beauty of Jan Mayen

As we sailed towards Jan Mayen, the sea was alive with seabirds soaring alongside the ship. The crossing was a little bumpy, but the wonderful crew made sure we were well looked after. The expedition team on the Greg Mortimer was nothing short of exceptional. Their knowledge, passion, and ability to make every moment special was one of the highlights of the trip for me. Whether it was an impromptu talk on whales or a heads-up when the northern lights were visible, they were always on hand to enhance our experience.

Jan Mayen itself was a spectacle—home to the towering Beerenberg Volcano, the northernmost active volcano in the world. Although the weather didn’t allow us to land, just seeing it rise from the ocean was enough to take my breath away.

Days 8-14: East Greenland – Glaciers, Musk Oxen, and Zodiac Adventures

And then, we arrived in Greenland. If you’ve ever wanted to know what true wilderness feels like, Greenland is the answer. Towering glaciers flowed into the fjords, birthing massive icebergs that floated like sculptures across the water. It was one of the most stunning sights I’ve ever seen.

Every chance we got, we hopped into Zodiacs and went ashore, exploring the tundra and hiking through unspoiled landscapes. One day, we hiked across ridgelines with views of vast fjords below, their waters dotted with colossal icebergs. We encountered musk oxen, quietly grazing on the tundra, and even caught glimpses of the occasional arctic fox darting across the snow.

As a keen sea swimmer, I’d been eagerly anticipating the chance to take a polar plunge, and I finally got to experience it at Hurry Inlet in Greenland. The water was a bone-chilling 1 degree Celsius, but the adrenaline rush and sense of accomplishment made every second worth it! Surrounded by the dramatic Arctic landscape, it was one of those once-in-a-lifetime moments that I’ll never forget.

One of my favourite stops was the remote village of Ittoqqortoormiit, where we met the locals, watched an enchanting Inuit drum dance, and played with the cutest husky puppies. It was such a heartwarming experience, meeting these resilient people living in one of the most isolated places on Earth.

Days 15-18: Iceland’s Westfjords and Snæfellsnes – From Lava Caves to Thermal Baths

Returning to Iceland, the contrasts between ice and fire became even more striking. We spent a peaceful afternoon on Vigur Island, home to puffins and Arctic terns. One of the days, while sailing along the coast, we had the privilege of seeing whales breaching in the distance. It was such an emotional moment for me, seeing these gentle giants in their natural habitat. 

Iceland is a place of extremes, where volcanoes and glaciers coexist, and the landscape shifts from black sand beaches to snow-capped mountains in the blink of an eye.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula was a highlight, with its dramatic lava fields, jagged cliffs, and the iconic Snæfellsjökull Glacier towering above us. I particularly loved hiking along the coastline, where volcanic rock formations met the crashing waves of the Atlantic. One of the most unique experiences was descending into the Vatnshellir Cave, an 8000-year-old lava tube. Inside, the walls glittered with rainbow-coloured volcanic rock, and it felt like we were venturing into the very heart of the earth.

After days of adventure, we relaxed in one of Iceland’s famous thermal baths. Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters, surrounded by mountains, was the perfect way to end this unforgettable journey.

The Crew and Expedition Team – The Heart of the Journey

I can’t talk about this trip without giving a huge shoutout to the crew and expedition team aboard the Greg Mortimer. From the moment we boarded, they made us feel so welcome and taken care of. The crew was always there with a smile and a helping hand, and the expedition team’s knowledge and passion for the Arctic was infectious. They truly brought the journey to life, sharing their stories, insights, and love for this wild part of the world. Every Zodiac landing, every wildlife sighting, and every evening talk was made richer by their expertise.

Ready to Join the Adventure?

This trip with Aurora Expeditions was more than just a holiday—it was a journey to the ends of the earth, filled with once-in-a-lifetime moments, incredible landscapes, and the joy of connecting with fellow adventurers. If you’re dreaming of northern lights, icebergs, glaciers, and the wild beauty of the Arctic, this voyage should be at the top of your list!

Not quite ready to book?  Read about more options for arctic holidays , where else to find bears, and arctic adventures for families for inspiration.  Or pick up the phone, I'm always happy to chat about travelling!

PS: If you’re more into images than reading, have a look at my YouTube videos from the voyage!