Northern Lights Explorer: My Arctic Adventure with Aurora Expeditions
I sailed in September aboard the Greg Mortimer with Aurora Expeditions on the Northern Lights Explorer voyage, from Norway to Iceland by way of Jan Mayen and East Greenland. It went well beyond sightseeing. There were remote landscapes, long evenings on deck with the sky doing something unexpected, and fellow passengers who felt the same pull towards wild places. Here are the highlights, day by day.
If you would rather watch than read, my YouTube videos from the voyage show more of it.
Day 1: Kirkenes, Norway
We began in Kirkenes, a small town near Norway’s border with Russia. I was surprised by how warm it was for the Arctic, 22 degrees, and I had only packed snow boots. After exploring some of the town’s history and getting my first look at the ship, I was buzzing. The Greg Mortimer exceeded all my expectations. It is spacious, modern and well designed, an expedition ship built for voyages like this, and everything on board made us feel well looked after.
That evening, as we set sail, the sky gave us our first northern lights display. I stood on deck while streaks of green and pink lit up the night, and it felt like a gift from the Arctic that set the tone for everything after.
Day 2: Honningsvåg, Reindeer, Sami Culture and Steep Hikes
Day two took us to Honningsvåg, where herds of reindeer grazed beneath a towering, treeless landscape. There was not a tree in sight, only tiny shrubs clinging to the ground. We learned that the Sami use drones to herd their reindeer, a modern twist on an ancient practice.
The highlight was the hike to Kirkeporten, a natural stone gate in the cliffs at Skarsvåg. The wind was wild and the climb was steep, but the views at the top made me forget both. Back on the ship we had another excellent meal (the food was a high point of the whole trip) and chatted with fellow passengers, who soon felt like old friends. There is something about travelling with people who share your spirit of adventure that creates an instant bond. We swapped stories, compared photos and laughed about the day’s windswept moments, and the expedition crew joined in, sharing what they knew and making us feel part of something bigger.
Day 3: Tromsø, Northern Lights, Planetariums and Hot Tubs
Tromsø, known as the Gateway to the Arctic, was different again. At the Tromsø Science Centre we watched a film about the northern lights in the planetarium, followed by a talk on the history and science of the aurora borealis. I liked how the myth and the science sat side by side.
That evening I had one of my pinch-me moments, sitting in the ship’s hot tub on deck, looking over the lights of Tromsø with the northern lights flickering above us. I will not forget it.
Days 4 and 5: The Lofoten Islands, Fjords, Fish and Viking Feasts
The next two days were spent in the Lofoten Islands, with rugged mountains, peaceful fjords and small fishing villages as the backdrop for some very good hikes. One day I climbed to a mountain top and was rewarded with 360-degree views of jagged peaks and clear lakes. The scenery looked almost unreal.
My favourite way to end a day there was the floating sauna in Svolvær: steamy sessions, refreshing swims in the harbour between them, and a sunset to watch while I dried off. We also spent time on Haukland Beach, with its white sand and turquoise water, a strange but beautiful sight in the Arctic. A visit to the Viking Museum at Borg took us back in time, with a Viking-style feast by the fire and homemade Viking soup that was a real treat.
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Days 6 and 7: At Sea and Jan Mayen
As we sailed towards Jan Mayen, seabirds soared alongside the ship. The crossing was a little bumpy, but the crew made sure we were well looked after. The expedition team were exceptional, and their knowledge and passion made every moment better. Whether it was an impromptu talk on whales or a call when the northern lights appeared, they were always on hand.
Jan Mayen is home to Beerenberg, which at 2,277 metres is the northernmost active volcano in the world above sea level. The weather did not allow us to land, but seeing it rise out of the ocean was enough to take my breath away.
Days 8 to 14: East Greenland, Glaciers, Musk Oxen and Zodiacs
Then we reached Greenland. If you have ever wondered what true wilderness feels like, this is it. Glaciers flowed into the fjords and calved huge icebergs that floated across the water like sculptures.
Every chance we got, we took Zodiacs ashore, explored the tundra and hiked through unspoiled landscapes. One day we walked along ridgelines with views over vast fjords dotted with enormous icebergs. We came across musk oxen grazing on the tundra and glimpsed the occasional arctic fox crossing the snow.
I am a keen sea swimmer, so I had been looking forward to a polar plunge, and I finally had it at Hurry Inlet. The water was 1 degree Celsius, but the adrenaline and the sense of achievement more than covered the cold. One of my favourite stops was Ittoqqortoormiit, among the most remote settlements on earth. We met the locals, watched an Inuit drum dance and played with the cutest husky puppies. Meeting people who live somewhere so isolated stayed with me.
Days 15 to 18: Iceland’s Westfjords and Snæfellsnes, from Lava Caves to Thermal Baths
Back in Iceland, the contrast between ice and fire stood out. We spent a peaceful afternoon on Vigur Island, home to puffins and Arctic terns. One day, while sailing along the coast, we saw whales breaching in the distance, which moved me more than I expected. Iceland is a place of extremes, where volcanoes and glaciers sit side by side and black sand beaches give way to snow-capped mountains.
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula was a highlight, with its lava fields, jagged cliffs and the Snæfellsjökull glacier above us. I loved hiking the coastline, where volcanic rock met the Atlantic waves. The most unusual experience was going down into Vatnshellir, a lava tube about 8,000 years old. Its walls were banded in red, orange, green and yellow rock, and it felt like heading into the centre of the earth. After days of adventure we finished in one of Iceland’s thermal baths, soaking in warm, mineral-rich water with mountains all around us.
The Crew and Expedition Team
I cannot talk about this trip without thanking the crew and expedition team aboard the Greg Mortimer. From the moment we boarded they made us feel welcome and looked after, and the expedition team’s knowledge of the Arctic was infectious. Every Zodiac landing, every wildlife sighting and every evening talk was richer for their expertise.
If You Are Thinking of a Voyage Like This
An expedition voyage follows the weather, the ice and the sea, so the route can change. On mine, the weather stopped us landing on Jan Mayen. The northern lights cannot be guaranteed on any voyage, which is part of why a long one gives you more chances. When I plan a voyage like this with you, I check the current ship, route and dates.
My pages on expedition cruises and sailing adventures, polar small group tours and bear watching holidays cover more ways to see the Arctic.
Why Book With Me
This is a personal service from start to finish. I plan the route and book every part of it, and if anything changes while you are travelling, you call me and I deal with it.
Call or WhatsApp 0117 452 1159 or email bridget@worldclassadventures.co.uk
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